A discount calculator answers two questions: how much do you save, and what is the final price? Multiply the original price by the discount rate for the savings, then subtract from the original — or multiply by (1 - rate) to jump straight to the sale price. A 30 percent discount on $120 is 120 x 0.70 = $84, saving $36. Simple — but retail pricing is engineered to make the simple feel complicated, with stacked offers, 'extra percent off sale,' and inflated reference prices all designed to short-circuit your arithmetic.
The trap is stacked discounts. A store offering '20% off, plus an extra 10% off' is not giving 30% off: the second discount applies to the already-reduced price, so $100 becomes $80, then $72 — a 28% total discount, not 30%. The general rule: multiply the keep-fractions (0.80 x 0.90 = 0.72 kept, so 28% off). Retailers know the bigger number sounds better, which is why you should compute it yourself. Also compare every discount against the original price, not the sale price, and watch for inflated 'was' prices — a $200 'was $400' deal is only a deal if the item ever actually sold for $400. Finally, a discount is only savings if you were going to buy anyway; 50% off something you do not need is 100% wasted. The sharpest comparison tool is the final unit price. A '40% off' $50 shirt ($30) versus a '25% off' $36 shirt ($27): the smaller discount wins because the base price was lower. Always compute the out-the-door number — price after discount plus tax — for each option and compare those; percentages are advertising, final prices are facts. And for big-ticket items, ask whether the discount is 'off MSRP' (often inflated) or off the actual selling price — only the latter measures real savings.